To be completely honest I hadn’t planned to visit Maria Island. But after my car broke down in the tiny coastal Tasmanian town of Triabunna—which has no real drawcard other than being the jetting-off point for the ferry to Maria Island—I decided this must be the best way to kill time while I wait for car repairs.
The ferry across to Maria Island takes about half an hour and you can lay on the front deck drinking beers if it’s a calm day. If not, the trip can get pretty choppy so make sure to stock up on travel sickness pills. It costs $52 for a return ferry ticket, and you also need to ensure you have a national park pass before reaching the island.
The island itself which, at its widest is about 20km across, is incredibly beautiful with clear and pristine beaches, beautiful grassy hills and cliff faces. It was once a convict settlement and the remnants of the old convict buildings still remain, but other than that there isn’t any other infrastructure at all so you need to take everything with you including food and drinking water. There are a few cabins available to book in the old penitentiary at about $44 per night for two, however, they’re known for booking out early. There’s a sprawling campground about a twenty-minute walk from the jetty where most visitors stay with bathrooms and a camp kitchen area (again there’s not really any cooking facilities so best to bring your own). There are even big trollies at the jetty so you can wheel your belongings up to the campsite, as it’s a bit of a trek with a tent on your back.
What Maria Island lacks in facilities it well and truly makes up for in incredible wildlife. There’s a huge population of Wombats, Pademelons, Cape Barren Geese, Potoroos, and even a hundred Tasmanian Devils; released here due to it being unattached to the mainland and as such without risk of infection from the contagious face tumours that almost wiped out all the devils. While I didn’t see any devils in my two days there, many of the campers I spoke to did spot Devils, particularly in the late afternoon.
There are endless walks (or bike rides) all over the island that vary in distance and difficulty. If you’re only staying for the day the shorter walks like Darlington Township Walk, which sees you traverse through the remnants of the convict settlement, only takes around two hours. Another favourite is the Fossil Cliffs which is a 4.5km circuit that takes you down to the cliffs where you can see ancient fossils including clams, sea fans and coral. Painted Cliffs is a similar distance and features incredible cliff faces that look, as the name suggests, as if they were hand-painted.
If you have the time to stay out for a night which I highly recommend, the sunsets and sunrises looking back across to mainland Tassie are something else entirely. You can climb up the hill for the best vantage point to watch the sunset over the ocean, while surrounded by all the wombats munching on grass. In the summer the beaches are a great spot for a dip, and the crystal-clear blue water is perfect for snorkelling.
Since I’d not had time to properly plan my visit across to Maria Island (unsurprisingly I hadn’t planned for my car to break down in Triabunna), I only brought enough fresh water and food to visit the island for two days. Despite the circumstances surrounding my visit, I’m so glad that breaking down led me to visit the island, because it truly is one of the most beautiful and untouched places I’ve ever been, and the standout highlight of my trip to Tasmania. I’ve been raving about it and recommending it to anyone who will listen ever since.
Extra pro tip: On your return to Triabunna, the tiny fish and chip shop across from the ferry car park has some of the best seafood I’ve ever had.
