In the suburb of Boneo on the Mornington Peninsula, a 140-acre stretch of farmland, nestled between Rye and Rosebud, is home to perhaps the best chips in Victoria.
Hawkes Farm, a proud family-run farm and produce shop has been shelling out these golden batons for over six years. It first started with those in the know but thanks to the clout of a high-praised review from hardcore chip enthusiast, @mips_chips (read our editor’s interview with Mip from 2020), taking out the number one spot in 2022, it blossomed into a deep-fried institution.
Speaking to Arthur Roullier, who heads up the farm kitchen alongside his partner Valentine Leblond, he explains how they got drawn into the chip world. Both originally from France, the pair worked across the entire business starting picking and working in the field, then onto the farm shop and finally taking control of the farm kitchen and chips HQ back in 2020.
“It’s been absolutely crazy, it’s been two years since Mips Chips posted about us and it honestly hasn’t stopped since”
Hawkes Farm specialises in the Sebago potato, grown in the rich soil that surrounds the region and wider Victoria, the potatoes are asymmetrical in shape and can range from anywhere between five and twenty centimetres in size. Their soft and pillowy texture makes it ideal for frying, taking on the heat and oil which results in a golden rough exterior with a velvety smooth inside.
“Based on the white flesh of the potato they crisp really well, you want that white on the inside, not any yellow, and you want to give them plenty of love”
Now with a semi-detached space dedicated to the renowned chips, Hawkes sees droves of customers flock to the farm gate for the five hours they’re open on every Saturday and Sunday where lines swell through the picnic area with hungry punters.
The dedicated fan base extends well outside the Mornington Peninsula with devout chip enthusiasts from city-dwelling Melburnians to devout purists driving more than two hours to stock up on the chips, carting away produce-sized boxes full of chips to store in the freezer which they then air-fry at a later stage—a monthly ritual they explain.
Contrary to belief the chips are actually never boiled or roasted, they are thrice cooked, but they are deep fried at three different temperatures to achieve that perfect golden layered crust and emulsify the pillowy potato on the inside.
“We hand-cut them, leave the skin and put them straight into the fryers, no blanching nothing, straight into the oil.”
Additionally, the chips are entirely gluten-free, unlike other venues nothing else enters the fryers making it a contaminant-free zone and dietary inclusive for all.
“You’d think I’d be sick of eating them but I still love them, they’re my reward at the end of the day,” Arthur laughs.
If chips aren’t necessarily your be and end-all, Arthur and Valentine have also started to introduce some of their own French repertoires with croque monsieurs, crepes, chocolate mousse and even the prospect of loaded chips on the horizon.
While you’re there you can stock up at the produce shop with fresh fruit and vegetables, pastries, pies and pre-made meals.
The Specifics:
What: Hawkes Farm
Where: 661 Boneo Road, Boneo VIC
Head to the Hawkes Farm website to find out more.
